by C. P.
Walking along Via di Monserrato, just past Piazza Farnese, many tourists may have wondered what a certain uniquely decorated door leads to. No plaques to give information, most take a picture and move on, ignoring that behind this intriguing entrance lies one of Rome’s most fascinating hidden gems: the Venerable English College, a historic institution that has played a crucial role in the relationships between the Vatican and English Catholics for close to 700 years.
What makes 2024 special is that this normally private institution, the oldest and most important English one outside UK soil, has opened its doors to the public in an unprecedented way. Until the end of the year, visitors will be able to peek inside the normally closed building and admire its art, featuring paintings by masters such as Andrea Pozzo or Pomarancio.
The Collegio Inglese is particularly representative of the Vatican’s relations, starting in the Middle Ages, with the international community. Originally a hostel for English pilgrims, it quickly became a proto-embassy, the “home away from home” for British dignitaries and diplomats visiting Rome, the Collegio transformed into a seminary in 1579 during the English Reformation, training Catholic priests who would return to England. Elizabeth I banned them and, as a result, students who still returned home as priests faced persecution and martyrdom: 44 of them in total were hanged or drawn and quartered.
In 1654, the Collegio expanded by buying the adjacent Corte Savella prison, that of Beatrice Cenci fame, but in 1798 it was occupied by the French troops led by Napoleon, whose ransacking started a period of neglect. It was only in the mid-19th century that the institution experienced a second golden age, which continues to this day.
Whether you’re interested in religious history, art, architecture or simply discovering Rome’s lesser-known treasures, the Venerable English College offers a unique insight into a world where faith, politics and culture have intersected for centuries. There is also a special kind of tourist who might want to take a look. In 1892, a group of students began playing a sport the locals had never heard of: football! It became so popular that a few years later, in 1900, a major football team, S.S. Lazio, was founded in the city. So, even “calcio” fans might want to visit the place that introduced the national pastime to Italy!
The College will be open to the public in the morning of every Saturday until December 28 2024. two guided visits will be available: one in Italian and one in English. Tickets are exclusively available here and must be booked in advance. Exact address is Via di Monserrato, 45 (Piazza Farnese/Campo de’ Fiori area).
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