Unknown Rome: Santa Maria della Scala

It is true: it may seem extravagant to invite people to visit a… pharmacy, but the one we are about to describe is an ancient one, perfectly preserved, something unique to Rome’s attractions, and above all it can be an alternative to the city’s museums and churches. In fact, many guests ask us to provide them with suggestions of things to do when they are not interested in art. This place in the heart of Trastevere makes it possible to take a trip back in time.

The history of “the pope’s pharmacy”

The Spezieria (the ancient name for Pharmacy, as it did sell “spezie” – spices too!) di Santa Maria della Scala is the oldest pharmacy in Europe and there’s a reason it got to us untouched: it was part of a convent run by the friars of the Discalced Carmelites.

They grew, prepared and sold their concoctions here until the 1970s. However, before then, it was Rome’s most famous of its kind (many other monastieries and convents had their own pharmacy). Because of this and its proximity to the Vatican area, many high-ranking prelates came here to procure medications of the highest quality, sometimes on the orders of the Popes themselves. This is why this place is nicknamed “the popes’ pharmacy.”

“Santa Maria della Scala”, as shortened by the Romans, was founded in the 16th century but was not open to the public until the following century.

How to visit the Ancient Pharmacy of Santa Maria della Scala

Piazza della Scala 23 is a short distance from many of our managed accommodations in Trastevere, among them Wanderlust and Sales 82. Getting to the entrance to this extraordinary place, you may find yourself confused: there is also a modern pharmacy here, in fact, and you may think you have the wrong address… Or century!

Just ask the staff for information! There’s a maximum of 20 people allowed in at each visit, to avoid bumping into the precious, ancient vases or mortars, and tickets are 5 EUR each. For the ultimate souvenir, know that some of the herbal remedies are still for sale to this day!

Group tours and skip-the-line tickets