by C. P.
One of the first posts to receive a little traction on our website was one about visiting Albano and Castel Gandolfo, way back in 2019. Now, while those are certainly some of the most well-known towns in the Castelli Romani area south of Rome, they’re certainly not the only ones worthy of a visit… Hence the need for a new article, this time focused on that region as a whole.
Talking about the Castelli Romani area as a whole is a Wikipedia-like endeavor, not one for a blog as small as ours! A favorite destination of Romans for out-of-town trips or eating with the family in a rustic (generally) setting, it is actually a constellation of small to medium-sized towns, each with its own unique character.
In this new post, however, we aim to do something concise but possibly… as encyclopedic (well, hopefully!): we want to point out the main destinations in this area with their distinctive features.
The “Castelli“, as locals call them, are now considered a satellite of Rome due to their proximity to it, which has prompted more and more citizens to take the plunge and move there for the lovely sights and better quality of life.
Despite the increase in population from the capital, the Castelli Romani are not Rome, and they deserve to be explored with the attention one would give to a place with greater tourist appeal, such as Tuscany or Umbria. They are quaint, picturesque and largely undiscovered by the masses.
It is important to note that not all destinations in the Castelli are connected to Rome by train, so it is always advisable to travel by car (although there are exceptions!), bearing in mind that all the places mentioned here are part of a ZTL system (here, you can find a post we wrote on the ZTL in Rome, specifically, but this applies to most other cities of Italy). Also: parkings are color-coded – familiarize yourselves with both of these policies!
Traditionally chosen by the Roman aristocracy for their retreats, Frascati is the most important center in the area also due to its wine production, with products known even outside the Lazio region. The Scuderie Aldobrandini, now a well-curated archaeological museum, are worth visiting.
Forever linked with porchetta, the very distinctive pork roast specialty, Ariccia was actually an important destination for the Grand Tour, which brought many European intellectuals and artists to the area over the centuries. The Piazza di Corte, with its monumental bridge, is the symbol of the town, and was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
The Abbey of San Nilo is an important religious complex and is certainly what attracts the most visitors, believers and non-believers alike, to this lively village, which is also the point of reference for visiting the ancient city of Tusculum.
It is probably a globally known fact that Castel Gandolfo is the summer residence of the Pope, and the Apostolic Palace that is located here can be visited, usually in the mornings. What is known to only a few, however, is that this can be done by train from St. Peter’s (more information is available here).
A key city for the understanding of the history of ancient Rome, Albano, the long-lost Alba Longa, features many important archaeological attractions, including the amphitheater that is still used to this day. Among its other landmarks, the tomb of the Horatii and Curiatii or the “other” Baths of Caracalla are worth mentioning: and yet, many tourists completely ignore this place.
On Lake Nemi, just a short distance from Albano, Nemi is famous for its strawberry production, which culminates in an annual festival (to be held the first week of June!), but also for the stunning Museo delle Navi (Museum of Ships), dedicated to the finds made in the very small basin where the Emperor Caligula amused himself with “mini naval battles”.
Rocca di Papa, at almost 1,000 meters above sea level, is a popular destination for photographers. A hike here offers breathtaking views of Lake Nemi and Lake Albano, as well as the opportunity to enjoy outdoor sporting events at Pratoni del Vivaro.
Genzano is world-famous for its “Infiorata“, the flower festival where artists from all over the world come together to decorate the alleys of the town with “flower carpets”. This town is also known for its bread, awarded with the IGP label. The nearby town of Lariano is also famous for its high-quality artisanal bread – so much so that there’s a long-standing dispute over which town has the better tasting one.
Marino has always been associated with the Sagra dell’Uva (and food and wine festivals are indeed one of the fixtures of every village in the area, even those we haven’t mentioned, like Colonna or Montecompatri!) However, Marino is more than just wine: culture lovers will find some very interesting underground archaeological routes here!
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