Rome in the footsteps of Sts. Peter and Paul

 

Every year on June 29th, the city of Rome celebrates its patron saints: St. Peter and St. Paul. These two apostles are revered not only as the founding fathers of the Catholic Church, but also as enduring symbols of courage and martyrdom. We talked about the feast of Sts. Peter and Paul a few years ago at this address, but this year we thought of something different. In this new post we “imagine” a kind of walking tour, one that goes from ancient Ostia to the heart of Rome. Regardless of one’s personal religious sentiments, Peter and Paul are two fascinating figures: two foreigners who made their way to Rome, revolutionized the religious life of the city, and perished for their beliefs – something to ponder about especially in this day and age.

St. Peter’s arrival in Rome

We know that Peter made his way to Rome by sailing from the Middle East. He first came ashore in what is now known as ancient Ostia, the ruins of Rome’s port city. Historians and archaeologists alike have a definite idea of where exactly he came to rest during his days in what is now Italy: a synagogue in Ostia, which was then a private residence and was not converted into a place of worship until the 3rd century CE. Before being used as a synagogue, it was an informal meeting place for foreigners traveling from Palestine and Jerusalem, regardless of their faith.

After passing through there, Peter made his way to Rome proper, possibly by boat, and docked around Testaccio and the Aventine Hill, where the main docks were. We’re sure of the location because we know that he stopped at the home of two early believers named Aquila and Priscilla, who had a home on the Aventine Hill. Archaeological digs have found inscriptions for an “Aquila” under what is now the Church of Saint Prisca, so it’s very likely that this is the same place: we know that early basilicas were often built on private residences.

The remains of the ancient synagogue can be seen in Via di Tor Boacciana, one of the excavated streets of ancient Ostia.
The Church of Saint Prisca is on Via di Santa Prisca, 11 (Aventine area).

St. Paul on the Appian Way

While Peter came to Rome mostly by boat, Paul traveled by land between Pozzuoli, north of Naples, and the city after a long and dangerous boat ride across the Mediterranean. He had been in prison for years because of his faith. However, he wasn’t a convicted criminal and enjoyed certain freedoms. As a Roman citizen, he had appealed to Emperor Nero against the decision to keep him imprisoned, and so he had traveled to the Eternal City. We now know that he walked the entire length of the ancient Appian Way after he docked and entered Rome at the Porta San Sebastiano.

The gate in question is on Via di Porta San Sebastiano, 18 (right by is is Museo delle Mura, a recommended visit if you don’t have any walking disabilities!).

St. Paul’s life in the city

When he made it to Rome, Paul rented a house in the area of today’s Largo di Torre Argentina and the Jewish quarter. The present-day church of San Paolo alla Regola is located directly above the remains of the “workshop” where he tinkered with leather and prayed, so we can assume that the house was also nearby. He was then transferred (he was awaiting trial and was under house arrest) to what is now Via del Corso: the Basilica of Santa Maria in Via Lata was built directly above his residence. He lived there with St. Luke.

The church of San Paolo alla Regola is on Piazza di San Paolo alla Regola, 32. The Basilica of Santa Maria in Via Lata is on Via del Corso, 306.

St. Peter’s stay in Monti

The tradition of transforming the houses of pious early Christians into churches was also maintained in the nearby Monti district. Here we know that Peter stayed as a guest in the house of the Roman senator Pudentius, who was one of his converts. His daughters, Praxedes and Pudentiana, were also later martyred. The Basilica of St. Pudentiana is located where Peter stayed (similarly, the Basilica of St. Mark, in Piazza Venezia, where Peter also resided, is where the Apostle Mark once lived – Peter also stayed there).

The Basilica of Santa Pudenziana (St. Pudentiana) is on Via Urbana, 160.
The Basilica of San Marco is on Piazza di San Marco, 48.

An attempt to flee the city

According to religious tradition, Peter, knowing that he would be martyred for his faith, tried to escape by walking the Appian Way. He only made it as far as where the river Almone flows, not far from the gate of San Sebastiano: the story goes that Jesus appeared to him and asked, “Quo vadis?” (Latin for “Where are you going?”). To which Peter accepted his fate and answered, “To Rome, to be crucified” and went back. The very place where Peter had this mystical encounter is now a Church, aptly named “Domine Quo Vadis”.

The Church of Domine Quo Vadis, AKA Santa Maria in Palmis, is on Via Appia Antica, 51.

Emprisonment and death

St. Peter and St. Paul were both imprisoned in the Mamertine Prison, then known simply as the Tullianum, which had been used as a prison continuously since its founding by one of the seven kings of Rome (either Ancus Marcius, Tullus Hostilius or Servius Tullius – the latter two would explain its ancient name). Like the churches described above, the prison can still be visited (the rule of silence is very strict here!) and is also included in the tourist pass sold directly by the Vatican (the Omnia Card).

The Mamertine Prison is on Clivo Argentario 1, downhill from the Capitoline Hill, by Via di San Pietro in Carcere.

There are two versions of the execution of both Peter and Paul. According to the most famous, Peter was crucified in Nero’s own circus on the Vatican Hill.

The only structure still visible today of the complex, which would have been as large as the Circus Maximus, is the Egyptian obelisk that Emperor Nero had placed in the middle of the racetrack. It is said that St. Peter was crucified on it. The obelisk has since been moved to be more symmetrical to the front of the Basilica as we see it today, so the point of Peter’s crucifixion would have been to the right of the Basilica itself. The apostle’s disciples then buried him in the cemetery there, which can still be visited under the church.

In another version, however, St. Peter was actually martyred on the Janiculum hill, where the church of San Pietro in Montorio now stands, to be buried immediately afterwards in the Ager Vaticanus.

St. Peter’s Basilica’s address is quite obvious, we think!
The Church of San Pietro in Montorio is on the Piazza di S. Pietro in Montorio, 3 (Janiculum area, uphill from Trastevere).

As for Paul, the sources tend to identify the place where he was beheaded as the site of the Abbey of the Tre Fontane. According to the legend, the apostle’s head bounced three times after being cut off, and each time it hit the ground, a natural spring gushed out, hence the name of the area. Inside the complex, “San Paolo alle Tre Fontane” is the name of the first church built on the very spot where it is said that Paul was martyred.

According to another version, St. Paul was executed exactly where he was buried, in the cemetery of Via Ostiensis (now Via Ostiense). The exact spot is the place where the monumental Basilica of San Paolo fuori le Mura was built. Under one of the altars you can still see the shackled used on the Apostle. Want to visit this Basilica? We have just the tour for you!

The Tre Fontane abbey is on Via di Acque Salvie, 1 (Ardeatino/EUR area).
The Basilica of San Paolo fuori le Mura is on Piazzale San Paolo, 1a (Ostiense area, by the subway stop “Basilica S. Paolo”).

This is not a one-day tour!

It’s important to note that we’re not suggesting that you visit all these sites in one day, or on the Feast of Saints Peter and Paul. Consider the above as suggestions for a not-so-ordinary exploration of certain parts of Rome that are overlooked by tourists (well, not St. Peter’s!). The above can be enjoyed at any time of year and over several days, although be warned: smaller churches, such as the Domine Quo Vadis or San Paolo alla Regola, may only be open on Sundays.