A place by the river: the Piazza Tevere “beach resort”

Making the river Tiber more accessible to everyone is an old dream of all Rome mayors: up until the early Sixties it was very possible to sunbathe on the banks, and many people even swam in the Tiber. Why did it all end was never really that clear. Maybe in the years of Italy’s “economic boom”, as it was called, it became “unfashionable” to hang out by the river in summer when one easily had the money to splurge on another, trendier area of Italy (or abroad). Or maybe the river simply became too polluted.

Be as it may, beaches by the river disappeared. In spite of several different city administrators making attempts at reviving the whole area by adding bike lanes or open air fairs by the banks, saying that the Tiber is neglected would be un understatement. Until this year.

Introducing “Piazza Tevere”: come enjoy the river!

A private organization by the name of Tevereterno (“Eternal Tiber”) has been working for years on reclaiming the areas by the waters, to the point of unofficially naming the one below Ponte Sisto, on both sides of the river, “Piazza Tevere” (“Tevere Square”). And Piazza Tevere is now the name of a “beach resort” of sorts that will remain open until October 25, taking back a couple of riverbank strips from carelessness, acts of vandalism and homeless camping below the arches of the Roman bridges.

Piazza Tevere is by far the best attempt at making the Tiber hospitable again: in spite of the Coronavirus epidemics, every day there are events happening by the shores, from acoustic gigs to art installations, from book presentations to projections. Deckchairs, a bar and a food truck are there for passers-by – swimming is not recommended, but you can certainly work on your tan with a drink by your side!

And don’t worry about Covid-19: once down the stairs from the eastern side of the Ponte Sisto bridge, minutes from our very own Wanderlust apartment, staff will measure your body temperature, and masks will have to stay on at all times.

A temporary event… hoping to make a comeback next year

The view is remarkable at Piazza Tevere, and it’s not just the Ponte Sisto or Piazza Trilussa. You will also be able to enjoy the gradual disappearance of “Triumphs and Laments”, the majestic work by South-African artist William Kentridge, who in 2016 used the fumes of Rome’s pollution to “paint” the symbols of the city on the walls of the riverbanks.

The aim of the artist is to have the city’s own air reclaim the work he did, and indeed Triumphs and Laments is disappearing before our eyes, with Piazza Tevere a witness to this incredible process.

Even everything else happening on Piazza Tevere is meant to be temporary: the lawn that has been put in place, the potted trees shading the banks, even the irrigation system will be transferred to the Riva Ostiense as part of a reclamation project of that particular area of the river. The move will happen starting October 26 but until then… Piazza Tevere will be yours to enjoy… hoping to see it again in the summer of 2021!