Eating in an “enoteca”: an alternative in Rome

Trattoria, hostaria, ristorante. Also, bar or café? And what about a tavola calda? As you visit Rome, you will be feeling overwhelmed by the amount of eateries available, and you may be end up feeling mystified because a place that looks formal really isn’t, or perhaps because you don’t really know what’s served where.

Does that sound like you? Well, prepare to be even more confused, because in today’s post we’ll be detailing the benefits of eating at yet another food establishment – the enoteca.

First off, what’s an enoteca?

An enoteca is literally a wine shop – while you may have bought your wine in one of the many small supermarkets near your Roman accommodation, this type of store is as widespread. Don’t think of it as an off-license – these places are high end and literally only sell alcohol. There will be some exceptions, but this is the general… lay of the land.

Wine shop… or wine bar?

Are all enoteche created equal? Not at all, and this is where confusion sets in for most foreign travelers. While in Italian the name remains the same, some enoteche will only sell wines, while others will also serve it. This is what you’d commonly call “wine bar”, and it’s these places we’re discussing here.

Why eat at an enoteca in Rome?

Having a meal at an enoteca is a simple affair, both because actual enoteche do not cook elaborate meals (most lack a proper kitchen) and because what they do have on offer is on the cheaper side. Of course the bill at the end, whatever the food on the menu, is largely dependent on the type of wine you will be ordering!

Once seated, you can find a small menu that will be big on cheeses and cold cuts, which means you may be able to do a wine tasting of sorts, but also grilled or pickled vegetables or quiches. This is not all there is, though, and some enoteche really work as a mini-restaurant of sorts, with limited seating and a menu that typically just consists of a handful of hot dishes.

How to find the right enoteca?

Again, not all enoteche are able to serve a quick meal and some focus on just
selling the wine they have. But walk long enough around Rome and you will be able to spot a good one right away: tables set with cutlery and tableware will be a giveaway! Conversely, an enoteca with no tables or tables too small or too low to be comfortable while eating will signal that there are only delicious wines there.

Some enoteche we recommend in the city

Il Goccetto on Via dei Banchi Vecchi doesn’t need any introductions: it’s one of central Rome’s most recognizable enoteche, always packed with a happy crowd of locals and tourists alike.

L’Antidoto on Vicolo del Bologna (Trastevere) focuses on natural/organic wines, and according to their motto, only serve wine by the bottle, not the glass!

Vyta | Enoteca Regionale del Lazio on Via Frattina (closer to Via del Corso rather than the Spanish Steps) is a lovely concept in that it is a place where you can only taste wines from the Lazio territory – knowledge is key, here!

Trimani on Via Cernaia (north of the main train station at Roma Termini) is Rome’s oldest wine seller, as it was first opened in 1821. Don’t just go there to buy some bottles!

Guerrini dal 1958, on Viale Regina Margherita, 201 is outside of the city center, in the same neighborhood as the legendary Quartiere Coppedè but worth the trek. It’s an enoteca but you can also get cocktails! Get here by tram (no. 3, no. 19) or bus.

These are not the only enoteche in Rome: the local Yellow Pages list over 200 of them, so we encourage you to keep exploring to find your favorite one!

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