Traditional Roman cuisine: Ferragosto and its lunch

If you’re visiting Rome at this very moment and are wondering where everyone went, it means you are new to Ferragosto – Italy’s oddest, longest-running holiday. One that comes with its special rules, customs and even… Food!

A super-short history of Ferragosto

While the actual day of the feast is on August 15, most Italians tend to take their vacations right before or right after it, which means Rome at Ferragosto is a little emptier and much more relaxed – it is, in other words, yours to enjoy!

When Roman celebrations meet… Catholicism

Ferragosto is formally called “Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary”, but is actually a pre-Christian holiday and dates back to the life and times of none other than emperor Augustus, who ruled that a period of rest was mandatory for all citizens at this time of the year.

“Feriae Augusti” (“Augustus’ days of rest”) remained popular even after the first emperor of Rome died, and so to this day we have Ferragosto… and a whole month named after the very creator of the feast.

How do Romans (and Italians!) celebrate Ferragosto?

The effects of Ferragosto are much more noticeable if you’re visiting a bigger city: for 10 days or so, people tend to relocate to the seaside, or go north looking for cooler temperatures in the Alps.

This means some shops may close down, as do some restaurants and cafes. Museums and other landmarks only tend to close on Ferragosto proper, ie. on August 15, even though in the last few years it’s more common to find that they skip on the holiday. Also, on that day you will find banks and post offices to be shut down as well. A big deal, then, exactly like Easter Sunday or Christmas!

What to eat on Ferragosto?

And exactly like Easter & Christmas, Ferragosto comes with its special menu for lunch (believe us, you can skip on dinner after it!). What follows is what is typically eaten in Rome, but every area of Italy has its own traditional dishes.

Ferragosto tends to bring out the BBQ aficionados in Italians, but there is more to it than just grilled meats.

You may have noticed “pollo coi peperoni” appear on seasonal menus in restaurants in the city or in the region. That’s a chicken stew with bell peppers, it’s delicious and it’s Ferragosto’s quintessential Roman specialty along with “pomodori col riso” (“rice-stuffed tomatoes”), an alternative to a pasta dish that is only common during the high of summer.

More primi in the Rome area include “pasta al forno” (“oven-baked pasta”) or lasagna, along with “fettuccine con le animelle” or “fettuccine coi fegatelli” (“sweetbread ragu fettuccine” or “liver ragu fettuccine”, depending on the restaurant). These specific dishes are not as common nowadays, as locals’ preferences on eating offal/entrails are changing, slowly but surely.

You will be able to find all or just some of the dishes above at any traditional restaurant doing Roman classics, but make sure you book your table ahead of time, and that you follow the rules re: the Green Pass/vaccine passport to access the establishment.

Also, make sure you check out our list of suggested eateries – you will find it in your apartment if you’ve booked one through From Home to Rome, and you can access our recommendations via QR code.

What else to do on Ferragosto?

The city may be emptier, but that doesn’t mean there is nothing to do: firework displays are traditional in Rome, and some of the surrounding cities even hold contests. We suggest finding a vantage point to enjoy them from. Something like this!

Bonfires on the beach are also a “Ferragosto thing” – Ostia is easily reachable from the city center, but if you have a car available it will be easier to go back to your accommodation.

The same applies for the many food festivals happening on Ferragosto and Ferragosto week in the small towns surrounding Rome: most of them focus on one ingredient alone and are fun ways to explore the countryside. Some examples? Collepardo, by Frosinone, has its own Fettuccine event at this time. Vignanello, near Viterbo, has a Wine Feast (“Festa del vino”), while nearby Graffignano hosts a “Snail festival” (“Sagra della Lumaca”).

Finally, night clubs always set up special events but due to the current restrictions you will find that just those that can count of an outdoors space will be able to open. We recommend checking dance-events at this site.