The Bear… in Rome: the city’s groundbreaking chefs

In a city where culinary tradition runs as deep as ancient ruins, a new generation of chefs is crafting their own legacy. Rome’s restaurant scene is experiencing a seismic shift, led by ambitious young talents who are rewriting the rules of Italian fine dining – without losing sight of their roots.

“The Bear” effect in Rome

If you’ve watched “The Bear,” you’ve seen how Carmy Berzatto transformed a Chicago sandwich shop into a temple of contemporary gastronomy while keeping its soul intact. This same spirit is alive in Rome, where young chefs are breaking down the formal barriers of haute cuisine. Gone are the stuffiness and pretense; in their place, you’ll find open kitchens buzzing with energy, chefs who plate dishes while chatting with guests, and dining rooms where sneakers are as welcome as tailored suits.

A “nouvelle” vision for Italian cuisine

These rising stars, many barely in their thirties, are bringing the principles of nouvelle cuisine to Italian gastronomy. But before you continue reading, a fair warning: if you’re a purist who believes carbonara should never be deconstructed or that traditional recipes are sacred texts, you might want to stick to Rome’s classic trattorias. These new establishments respect tradition but aren’t bound by it. Imagine animelle, AKA sweetbreads, one of the signature dishes of Roman peasant cuisine, transformed into an award-winning delicacy, or amatriciana used as a filling for the traditional Piedmontese pasta shape, the plin.

A tale of two worlds

The beauty of Rome’s current dining scene lies in its duality. The city hasn’t lost its soul – the traditional trattorias and historic restaurants still serve the classics that made Roman cuisine famous. But alongside them, this new generation is proving that innovation and tradition can coexist, creating a richer, more diverse culinary landscape that extends beyond the “normal” tourist trails, as these kitchens often open in different (and cheaper) neighborhoods compared to the city center. What follows is a short, absolutely non-exhaustive list of some people whose food you should try if you’re feeling adventurous!

Roy Caceres

Colombia-born Roy Caceres is no freshman and has earned a Michelin star during his previous tenure at now closed Metamorfosi, but he’s really exploded with his latest adventure at Orma, in Via Boncompagni (walking distance from our managed accommodation on Via Toscana!). He mixes Italian tradition with (for example!) Latin American ingredients that he personally sources, and a dinner at his restaurant is not complete without a visit to the chef’s table – an incredible experience in itself.

Davide Del Duca

While Davide Del Duca hasn’t earned any Michelin stars (yet), he doesn’t seem to terribly mind. This 1982-born chef likes to do his own thing regardless of international awards. He owns two restaurants – one that is more up Michelin’s alley, celebrated Osteria Fernanda on Via Crescenzo del Monte (walking distance from the Roma Trastevere train station), and one where he flirts with traditional dishes called Bianca Trattoria (on Circonvallazione Trionfale, north of the Vatican). One of his signature dishes pairs rigatoni pasta with… escargots.

Antonio Ziantoni

The chef’s “street cred” comes from working with Gordon Ramsay and at one of Rome’s most awarded restaurants, Il Pagliaccio, where he spent nearly four years. Antonio was barely in his thirties when he decided to open Zia in Trastevere, and a Michelin star soon followed. His cuisine is smart and inventive, with many nods to Rome’s traditional ingredients.

Federico Salvucci

Belgian-born Salvucci has amassed an impressive number of high-end collaborations for someone who is still to turn 30. His own restaurant, Fase – Cucina Spontanea, is located where his neighborhood trattoria used to be, in the Prati district meets its Della Vittoria neighbor(hood) and, as the name suggests, is a “spontaneous” affair, with ingredients bought daily at the nearby Mercato Trionfale informing the menu. One of his most famous dishes is a pasta “not amatriciana” with shallots and balsamic vinegar. He is as ambitious as he is playful. Located in Via Muggia.

Cristina Bowerman

While she has been named one of Italy’s best chefs for 2024 (not her first recognition!), Cristina Bowerman’s many accolades are almost secondary – this Michelin-starred chef is also known for her activism to end world hunger. She currently runs Glass Hostaria in Trastevere.

Ciro Alberto Cucciniello

Another young chef who likes to “improvise” with his menus, his restaurant Carter Oblio is one of the most talked about in the city at the moment, precisely because of its groundbreaking combination of ingredients. Located in Via Giuseppe Gioachino Belli, near Piazza Cavour.

Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccanelli

A couple in the kitchen and in life, this duo made waves with their restaurant Mazzo in Centocelle, which they decided to close abruptly a few years ago. Now they are back with the same name but in a different neighborhood, the gritty, chaotic, very lively San Lorenzo. Their signature dish is fried tripes, so be warned: this young, uncompromising, punkish establishment is not for everyone!

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